Walks to cleanse the soul

If you feel the need to go green, the Buda hills might just be what you're looking for. Lucy Mallows discovers more... When the heat and dust of the city becomes overwhelming, there are several destinations where you can go to cool off.


If you feel the need to go green, the Buda hills might just be what you're looking for. Lucy Mallows discovers more...





WHEN the heat and dust of the city becomes overwhelming, there are several destinations where you can go to cool off. The Palatinus, Dagály, Római fürdô and Csillaghegy lido complexes are usually filled to bursting point , so if you fancy something a little more sedate, head for the hills.


The Buda hills are covered by thick, cool forest, offering respite from the burning sun and they are an excellent place to recharge the batteries.


Normafa has some of the highest points in town.


Its ridge sits 479m above sea level and János hegy (John's Hill) is the highest peak in the area at 527m.


The area has become so popular, that at weekends the woods resemble a leafy Váci utca, with crowds and their dogs jostling for space amongst the hoards of children, ramblers, mountain bikers and joggers.


Most people arrive at Normafa on the number 21 bus from Moszkva tér, although there is also parking space behind the Síház (Ski House). If you want to bring a bike up, but can't face a steep climb, a good way to cheat is to take the Cogwheel railway (you need to buy a ticket for your bike as well), whose last stop is just a couple of rotations away at Széchenyi-hegy, where you can also link up with the Children's Railway.


Once the bus arrives at Normafa, the slope on the right leads down to the charming Harang-völgy (Bell valley) beyond Béla király út. You can see a memorial stone dedicated to Kossuth and enjoy a hearty open-air grill at the Disznófô (Pig Roast) restaurant.


Normafa itself also has an abundance of eateries, from the Normafa Síház at the top of the hill, the trendy Normafa Bar & Grill opposite, the Rétes Ház and a buffet by the little roundabout that serves a mean fröccs(white wine and soda spritzer).


The Síház (Ski House) is more of a café, with a circular dining room, wooden benches and dozens of hanging plants, and feels like you're sitting in a neighbor's cool, shady conservatory.


After a light salad lunch at the Normafa Bar & Grill you can turn left and walk through the hills on gentle downward slope to Budakeszi, or for a more energetic tramp, follow the blue circle route to János hegy, where the Libegô (chair lift) offers spectacular views on the way down. At the top of János hegy (John's Hill) the Erzsébet kilátó (Elizabeth lookout tower) can be climbed for a small fee, giving even better views and a café underneath provides refreshment.


To escape the crowds, follow the ramblers' route marked with green cross sign painted onto trees, by the last stop of the number 21 bus (on the other side from the Danube view), cross over the Children's' Railway line and head down the valley, through Budakeszi forest towards Makkosmária church, situated in a beautiful clearing. This route is less packed with walkers and passes a memorial to soldiers killed in the Second World War, and a little further down there's a picnic area, with a place to light fires, providing you ask permission first.


Makkosmária Catholic church is definitely worth a look, then continue down Makkosmária út toward the center of Budakeszi. From here you can take the number 22 bus back to Moszkva tér, passing the wildlife park (Budakeszi vadaspark).


The Mátyás király woods can be reached by taking the number 11 bus from Batthyány tér to the end of the line and following the green circle route which weaves in and out of Görgényi út for about a kilometer until the road ends in a car park. Many people bring their children here to study nature at source. The paths leading off from the car park are called "tanösvény" (paths of learning) and are dotted with informative tables about the park and the environment.


The terrain here is steep and covered with scrubby aspen and giant conifers. A long outcrop of smooth


white rock forming the Hármashatárhegy and the lower Felsô kecske hegy (Upper goat hill) dominates the skyline. All the color coded trails are marked, advising on direction and distance measured in "p" for perc, or, minutes, although this is generally accepted as néni tempo (auntie's rate).


To reach the Vitorlázómezô és repülôtér, the airfield where paragliders, gliders and biplanes offer rides for an agreed sum (usually only Ft1,000 for five minutes' impressive soaring over the Danube), take the red circle ramblers' route for about half a mile up a gentle slope then turn left onto the yellow cross route until you come out into a large clearing with Homok-hegy (Sand Hill) on your left.


Many people climb the hummock to see the memorial to King Mátyás and take a breather while they watch the paragliders and hang-gliders take off from the 339m Vörös kôvár (Red Stone-castle) hill opposite.


From here, you can follow an unmarked route, along a track straight across the airfield. This will take you to the suburb of Remetekertváros (Hermit garden town). Then go left at the border with the houses and link up with Hidegekúti út which leads to Huvôsvölgy, where the 56 red express bus will whisk you back to smelly old Moszkva tér.


The more energetic can climb the steep hill up to the television tower on Hármashatárhegy (Third border hill), which, at 495mcomes close to rivaling János hegy across the Huvösvölgy valley. A wild windswept space, it offers little protection from heat of the sun. However, you can enjoy a cool drink and a magnificent view from the terrace of the elegant Udvarház restaurant.


Hármashatárhegy can be reached by scrambling up the blue circle route from the airfield or approached from the less strenuous Óbuda side.


Take the number 65 bus from Kolossy tér to the Fenyôgyöngye restaurant, passing another enticing Erdei Lak game-specialty restaurant and the Pál völgyi barlang caves. From the Fenyôgyönge, keep walking along the road, which follows the valley uphill to Újlaki-hegy (449m) where there is also ample parking space amongst the bushes. Here, turn to the right and follow the blue circle trail up to Hármashatárhegy, where your exertion is rewarded with a spectacular views.


Continue along the blue stripe trail to Vihár-hegy (Storm hill 453m) and when you reach a little triangular chalet café at the hamlet of Gercsény, double back to the right along the blue cross route and you will link up with Erdôalja út and the 137 bus will drop you off at Florián tér.


A personal favorite of mine is the walk from the Fenyôgyöngye restaurant, following the blue stripe trail up over Látóhegy (374m) towards Rózsadomb.


This passes the Árpád kilátó stone lookout lodge and then meanders down to the spot where the number


11 bus terminates at the end of Törökvész út.


Crossing the road, head along the green stripe route, which scratches along the side of a crumbly white cliff towards Apáthy szikla. If you follow the green stripe trail down through the suburban roads, keeping the Franciscan church of St Anthony of Padua at Pasaréti tér as your marker, you can also take in a stroll along the experimental showcase street, Napraforgó utca. Here 22 houses were built between 1931-32, when some of Hungary's most promising and inventive architects were asked design homes for modern living. From Pasaréti tér, the number 5 bus runs conveniently all the way back to Pest's Március 15 tér.





Suggested routes - in order of difficulty


1. Normafa(No 21 bus) - Makkosmária - Budakeszi (No 22 bus). A gentle downward sloping walk


2. Vaskapu-hegy (No 11 bus terminus) Mátyás király park -Vitorlázó mezô - Remetekertváros - Huvösvölgy (No 56 bus).Little shade, uphill and on the flat.


3. Fenyôgyöngye restaurant (No 65 bus) -Árpád kilátó - Apáthy szikla - Napraforgó utca - Pasaréti tér (No 5 bus). Plenty of variety, ups and downs.


4. Fenyôgyöngye restaurant (No 65 bus terminus)- Hármashatárhegy - Udvarház-Vihárhegy-Erdôalja út (137 bus to Florián tér). More strenuous, exposed, mostly uphill.




03.07.2003